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Sewing · Hand sewing reference

Hand sewing stitches

Step-by-step instructions for every essential hand sewing stitch — what each one is for, how to tie it, and the common mistakes to avoid.

J Jo King

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When hand sewing beats the machine

Invisible finishing: Slip stitch closes openings without visible stitching — no machine can match it for invisible closes.

Delicate repairs: Hand sewing gives control for mending fine fabrics without a machine mangling them.

Buttons and hooks: Always hand-sewn. Machine buttonholes are a different thing — attaching the button itself is always by hand.

Tailored hems: A catch-stitched hem on a wool trouser looks and behaves better than a machine hem on quality garments.

Stitch	Level	Best used for	Strength
Running stitch	Beginner	Gathering fabric, basting (temporary stitching), decorative stitching	Weak
Backstitch	Beginner	Seam repairs, construction sewing by hand, strong joins	Strong
Slip stitch (ladder stitch)	Beginner–intermediate	Closing openings invisibly — stuffed toys, cushions, lined bags	Moderate
Catch stitch (herringbone stitch)	Intermediate	Hemming — especially on heavier fabrics like wool and denim	Strong and flexible
Whip stitch	Beginner	Joining two fabric edges together, closing toys, decorative edging	Moderate
Blanket stitch	Beginner	Finishing fabric edges (especially felt), decorative edging, buttonholes	Moderate

Running stitch

Beginner Gathering fabric, basting (temporary stitching), decorative stitching

1
Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end.
2
Push the needle down through the fabric, then back up, keeping an even distance.
3
Continue in the same direction, creating evenly spaced dashes.
4
The stitch length and gap should be equal — typically 3–5mm each.

Tip: For gathering, use a longer stitch length (6–8mm) and leave a tail. Pull the thread tail gently to gather the fabric to the desired length.

Backstitch

Beginner Seam repairs, construction sewing by hand, strong joins

1
Make one small stitch forward (3–4mm) and pull through.
2
Insert the needle back into the end of the previous stitch (going backward).
3
Bring the needle up one stitch length ahead of where the thread exits.
4
Repeat — you're always going backward to fill the gap, then forward to progress.

Tip: Backstitch looks like a continuous line on the top and overlapping stitches on the underside. If your underside looks like running stitch, you're not taking the needle far enough back.

Slip stitch (ladder stitch)

Beginner–intermediate Closing openings invisibly — stuffed toys, cushions, lined bags

1
Fold and press both fabric edges inward so raw edges are hidden.
2
Bring needle up through the fold on one side.
3
Cross to the opposite fold and pick up a 3–5mm section of fabric inside the fold.
4
Cross back and pick up 3–5mm inside the opposite fold.
5
Continue alternating sides — the thread will run like a ladder between the two folds.
6
After 5–6 stitches, pull the thread firmly — the opening will close invisibly.

Tip: Keep your stitches inside the fold, not through the outer fabric. If you see the thread on the outside, you're catching the face fabric rather than just the folded edge.

Catch stitch (herringbone stitch)

Intermediate Hemming — especially on heavier fabrics like wool and denim

1
Work from left to right with needle pointing left (you're working "backwards").
2
Take a tiny horizontal stitch in the hem allowance (picking up just one or two threads).
3
Move diagonally right and down, take a tiny horizontal stitch in the garment fabric (just 1–2 threads visible).
4
Move back up diagonally right, repeat alternating between hem and garment.
5
The result is a crossed pattern on the wrong side and nearly invisible on the right side.

Tip: The whole stitch works on catching just 1–2 threads of the fashion fabric — more than that and the stitch will show on the outside of the garment. Use a thread that matches the garment fabric exactly.

Whip stitch

Beginner Joining two fabric edges together, closing toys, decorative edging

1
Hold the two fabric edges together, right sides out or facing each other depending on intent.
2
Bring needle up through both layers from back to front.
3
Loop the thread over the edge and insert needle from back to front again, slightly further along.
4
Continue wrapping the thread around the edge at even intervals.

Tip: For a neat result, keep the stitch angle and spacing consistent. Useful for joining felt pieces (felt doesn't fray) and closing stuffed animals where you want a visible decorative seam.

Blanket stitch

Beginner Finishing fabric edges (especially felt), decorative edging, buttonholes

1
Bring needle up from the back, close to the edge of the fabric.
2
Bring the thread over the edge and insert the needle from the front, the same distance from the edge.
3
Before pulling through, pass the needle through the loop of thread created.
4
Pull firm — the loop will sit along the very edge of the fabric.
5
Continue at even intervals.

Tip: The loop must sit on the edge, not inside the fabric. If your loops are floating away from the edge, you're pulling the needle through too early before the loop has settled on the edge.

Which hand sewing needle to use

Sharps (size 7–9)

General hand sewing on woven fabrics. Most versatile beginner needle.

Betweens / quilting needles

Short and fine — for small, precise stitches in quilting and tailoring.

Tapestry needle

Blunt tip for needlepoint and counted cross-stitch on canvas.

Darning needle

Long with a large eye — for mending with thicker thread or darning wool.

Ball-point needle

Slides between jersey/knit fibres rather than piercing them. Essential for stretch fabrics.

Embroidery needle (crewel)

Long eye to accommodate multiple strands of embroidery thread.

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FAQs

Everything you need to know before you book.

Is hand sewing worth learning if I have a sewing machine?

Yes — certain finishing techniques (slip stitch, ladder stitch, catch stitch for hems) produce results that look better hand-sewn than machine-sewn. Hand sewing is also essential for invisible repairs, attaching buttons securely, and hand-finishing tailored garments. Most experienced sewists use both.

What needle and thread do I need for hand sewing?

For most hand sewing projects, a size 7–9 sharps needle and all-purpose polyester thread works well. Sharps needles are the most versatile — medium length, sharp point, suitable for woven fabrics. Embroidery threads are too thick for construction sewing. For buttons, use a doubled thread or buttonhole thread for strength.

What is a slip stitch used for?

A slip stitch (also called a ladder stitch) creates an almost invisible seam when closing an opening from the right side of the fabric — such as stuffed toys, cushion covers, and turning points in lined bags. The needle travels inside the fold of each fabric edge alternately, creating a hidden join.

How do you sew a button on properly so it doesn't fall off?

Thread doubled and knotted. Start with a small anchoring stitch on the wrong side. Pass through the button holes 4–6 times with firm tension. Before finishing, wrap the thread around the stitches between the button and fabric 3–4 times to create a thread shank. This shank creates space for the buttonhole fabric and prevents the button pulling off.

What is the difference between a running stitch and a backstitch?

A running stitch passes the needle in and out of the fabric in one motion, creating evenly spaced dashes — weak but fast, used for gathering and basting. A backstitch goes forward one stitch, then back to fill the gap, creating a continuous solid line — much stronger, used for construction seams and repairs.