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Knitting · Stitch reference

Knitting stitches guide

Step-by-step instructions for every essential knitting stitch pattern — from garter stitch to seed stitch — plus common abbreviations explained.

J Jo King

See stitches in close-up video

Abbreviation	Meaning	Notes
k	Knit	k3 = knit 3 stitches
p	Purl	p3 = purl 3 stitches
CO	Cast on	CO 20 = cast on 20 stitches
BO / cast off	Bind off / cast off	Securing the final row
RS	Right side	The side that faces outward in the finished piece
WS	Wrong side	The inside/back of the finished piece
YO	Yarn over	Wrap yarn around needle — creates a new stitch and a hole (eyelet)
k2tog	Knit two together	Decrease — leans right
ssk	Slip, slip, knit	Decrease — leans left. Paired with k2tog for symmetrical shaping
kfb	Knit front and back	Increase — knit into front and back loops of same stitch
rep	Repeat	k2, p2 rep = work k2, p2 pattern repeatedly
st(s)	Stitch(es)	stitch count

Garter stitch

k every row Beginner

Fabric: Ridged, reversible, lies flat

1
Cast on any number of stitches.
2
Knit every stitch in every row — no purling.
3
The fabric develops horizontal ridges on both sides.
4
Two rows of knitting create one visible ridge.

Tip: Garter stitch is the most forgiving for beginners — if you accidentally purl a stitch, it looks like the next ridge and is barely noticeable. Great for building confidence before learning purl.

Used for: Scarves, dishcloths, borders, blanket squares

Stocking stitch

k RS, p WS Beginner

Fabric: Smooth V-stitches on right side, bumpy purl bumps on wrong side

1
Cast on any number of stitches.
2
Row 1 (right side): Knit all stitches.
3
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl all stitches.
4
Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Tip: Stocking stitch curls at the edges — the sides curl inward and the top/bottom curl outward. This is normal and not a mistake. Add a border of garter stitch or rib to prevent curling in flat projects.

Used for: Garments, hats, socks, most pattern knitting

Reverse stocking stitch

p RS, k WS Beginner

Fabric: Purl bumps on the right side (deliberately)

1
Row 1 (right side): Purl all stitches.
2
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit all stitches.
3
Repeat — you are working stocking stitch with the "wrong" side facing.

Tip: Used as a background texture in cable patterns where the cables stand out against a purled field. Also used deliberately in some modern textural designs.

Used for: Textural contrast in patterns, cables, seeded designs

2×2 rib

k2, p2 Beginner

Fabric: Elastic vertical columns — stretchy and neat

1
Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches.
2
Row 1: *Knit 2, purl 2* — repeat to end.
3
Row 2: Work stitches as they appear — knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches.
4
Repeat row 2 for the pattern.

Tip: "Work as they appear" means look at the stitch on the needle: if the leading leg is at the front, it's a purl stitch — purl it. If it's at the back, it's a knit stitch — knit it. Once this clicks, ribbing becomes automatic.

Used for: Cuffs, neckbands, hat brims, sock tops, button bands

1×1 rib

k1, p1 Beginner

Fabric: More elastic than 2×2 rib, finer texture

1
Cast on an even number of stitches.
2
Row 1: *Knit 1, purl 1* — repeat to end.
3
Row 2: Work stitches as they appear.
4
Repeat row 2.

Tip: Moving the yarn between stitches is what creates rib — bring yarn to front before purling, send to back before knitting. If you forget, you create an accidental yarn-over and gain stitches.

Used for: Fine-gauge cuffs, necklines, sock cuffs

Seed stitch (UK: moss stitch)

k1, p1 alternating each row Beginner–intermediate

Fabric: Textured, bumpy, reversible — lies completely flat

1
Cast on an odd number of stitches for simple seed.
2
Row 1: *Knit 1, purl 1* — repeat, ending on k1.
3
Row 2: *Knit 1, purl 1* — same as row 1. (Unlike rib, you do NOT work stitches as they appear.)
4
The purl sits over a knit and vice versa — creating the pebbly texture.

Tip: The difference between seed stitch and 1×1 rib is that in rib you work stitches as they appear; in seed stitch you do the opposite each time. The result: rib has vertical columns; seed stitch has a pebbly texture.

Used for: Borders, scarves, bag panels, textural interest

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FAQs

Everything you need to know before you book.

What is the difference between garter stitch and stocking stitch?

Garter stitch is made by knitting every row on both sides — produces a ridged, reversible fabric that lies flat. Stocking stitch alternates a knit row (right side) with a purl row (wrong side) — creates the classic smooth V-stitch fabric used in most garments. Stocking stitch curls at the edges unless bordered with garter or rib.

What is rib stitch and when do you use it?

Rib stitch alternates knit and purl stitches in the same row (e.g., k2, p2 or k1, p1). The fabric is very elastic and has vertical columns. Used for cuffs, neckbands, hat brims, and sock tops — anywhere you want stretch and a neat, fitted edge that won't curl.

What is the yarn over increase?

Yarn over (YO) is wrapping the yarn around the needle between stitches without working into a stitch — creates a new stitch and a small hole (eyelet). Used deliberately in lace and eyelet patterns for the decorative hole, and in intentional increase rows. If you get accidental holes in your work, you may be accidentally doing yarn overs.

What does k2tog mean?

Knit two together — insert needle through two stitches at once (left to right, through both) and knit them as one. This decreases one stitch and the resulting decrease leans to the right. Paired with ssk (slip, slip, knit) which leans left — used together for symmetrical shaping in hats, raglan sleeves, and sock heels.